Misc.

Tourists Return to Isfahan
The 17th-Century Capital of Persia

Visitors to Isfahan, rare after the Sept. 11 attacks on the United States, are returning to contemplate the magnificent bridges and stroll the charming walkways of this historic city.

Isfahan was united Persia's capital at the time of the Safavids in the 17th century. Its massive central Shah (Imam) square, built by Shah Abbas I, celebrates its 400th anniversary this year. Its three million inhabitants are accustomed to receiving an average of 400,000 visitors a year, mostly Europeans.

"Americans, who love Isfahan, hardly come anymore," Hamid Emami, the head Isfahan tourism organisation said. However, since March "there have been almost 160,000 visitors, mostly Germans, French, Italians and British," he added.

Hotel Abassi (previously called Shah Abbas) located on the grounds of an ancient rest house for caravans, is one of the city's grandest hotels, with 230 rooms and 25 suites. Business here has picked up after the few months of quiet in which tourism had dropped by 80 per cent. U.N. Secretary-General Kofi Annan, Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez and Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar have been among dignitaries who have stayed in this hotel in the past few months.

Nasrine Hamidi, a psychologist in Isfahan, insists that people's reluctance to visit Iran after the attacks is "totally irrational." She says: "Iran is neither Afghanistan nor Iraq. There is no objective reason not to come. Nevertheless, almost all tourists refused to come last winter."

However, visitors from Arab countries continued to come in earnest, especially Saudis, delighting in the parks and fountains of the city.

There has also been a rise in the number of young visitors to the country - including many backpackers - passing through Isfahan, and other Iranian cities, looking for adventure. "It was my childhood dream to visit magical Persia. I am so happy in Isfahan," said Guennadi Podborodnikov, 30, from Moscow. He and his Italian friend Jacomo Mezzera, 33, are both traveling around the country on a modest budget. "Everything is beautiful, the people, the Imam mosque, Ali Qapou Palace, the bazaar. But here, it is not like in Europe, we have to follow the local forms of conduct and politeness," Mezzera said.

A group of five Chinese were also visiting Isfahan's attractions. They went to the bird park, famous across Iran for its thousands of bird species. "I have not traveled much, but here I find an intense historical presence and the burdens of modernity, as in my hometown Xian. I am at ease in Isfahan," said Xu Wen, a 36-year-old electric engineer.