BALKH (Vazirabad)

Balkh is an ancient town that served as headquarters for Alexander the Great for two years after his invasion in 328 BC. Destroyed in 1221 by Genghis Khan, the town was rebuilt by the Mongol conqueror Tamerlane almost 200 years later. The ruins of the Madjide Haji Pivada (Piyada) Mosque (one of the worldÕs oldest mosques), the Arch of Nawbahar and the remains of a Buddhist stupa are some of the townÕs attractions. It was in Balkh that Zoroaster was born and raised. Also called Zarathustra, he was the founder of the ancient Persian religion, Zoroastrianism. 322 km northwest of Kabul.

BAMIAN (Bamiyan, Bamyan)

Extensively bombed during the war, Bamian (pop. 50,000) is of interest as an ancient center for Buddhist learning. This beautiful (if arid) site on the Kunduz River is historically significant as the place where an indigenous Afghan religion developed during the 1st-6th centuries. The area has some 10,000 caves (and assorted tunnels), ancient cave dwellings and the Red City fortress (and its other mountaintop companions). Two huge Buddhas (one 53 m tall and the other 35 m tall) carved into a mountainside are still standing but were badly damaged in the war. Nearby are the ruins of Zohak and Gholghola and the lakes of Band-i-Amir. 130 km west of Kabul.

BEGRAM

This out-of-the-way place was once known as Kapissa, capital of the Kushan (Indo-Greek) kings. Sights include the remains of a fort built by Alexander the Great. A number of other sites are waiting to be excavated. 32 km north of Kabul.

BOST (Lashkar Gah)

Bost, which was seriously damaged during the war, is the site of the ancient buildings, ramparts, arches and towers of what was once a capital of the Ghaznevid Empire. The Qalai Bost (arch) still has a skeleton lying at its base. 565 km southwest of Kabul.

GHAZNI

Ghazni (pop. 32,000) was one of the most powerful capitals in the world during the time of the Ghaznevid Empire, which stretched from the Tigris to the Ganges. Today Ghazni is not very large, but it does have a fabulous minaret shaped like a double star, a museum, a palace, a mausoleum and the tomb of Ahmad Shah (founder of Afghanistan). The city is also known for the beautiful Afghan sheepskin coats made there. 130 km south-southwest of Kabul.

HERAT (Aria)

The countryÕs third-largest city (pop. 165,000), Herat was once occupied by Alexander the Great. Enormous defensive walls and earthworks remain from ancient times. Destroyed in the early 13th century by Genghis Khan, it was later rebuilt. Although much of the old town is in ruins again, remaining sites include the 10th-century Friday Mosque, a synagogue, minarets, monuments and the impressive 444-column Masjid-i-Jame. The tomb of Queen Gawhar Shad was damaged during the warÑit was a government artillery position. Nearby, at Gazergah, is a 1,000-year-old monastery and mausoleum. 645 km west of Kabul.

JALALABAD (Jalalkot, Jelalabad)
This ancient walled town of 58,000 guards the western end of the Khyber Pass. A playground for the rich and famous of the ancient world, Jalalabad continued to serve as a resort for the wealthy during the winter—Afghanistan’s last king had a palace there. More recently, the city was the site of fierce battles and drawn-out sieges in the Soviet war. 113 km east of Kabul.

KABUL
Set atop a plateau nearly 6,000 ft/1,825 m high in the Hindu Kush Mountains, 3,000-year-old Kabul once rated at least a three-night stay. Today, the arid capital city is not much more than ruins. Thousands of missles have fallen on the city over the last four years and street fighting with rockets and grenades has become a permanent part of daily life. Once grand museums have been looted or destroyed. On our last visit, the only way to communicate with the outside world was via the city’s sole telex machine. Nearby is the Babar Garden Tomb (where the Mongul emperor Babur, a descendant of Tamerlane, is buried), Istalif (blue pottery) and Charikar (Buddhist stupas from the 2nd and 3rd centuries).

KANDAHAR (Qandahar)
Kandahar (pop. 210,000), the nation’s second-largest city, is considered to be the birthplace of modern Afghanistan. Virtually all of this 200-year-old city was destroyed during the war. Muhammad’s Sacred Mantle (enshrined in the main mosque) escaped damage. 465 km southwest of Kabul.

KUNDUZ (Konduz, Qonduz)
This town (pop. 57,000) was known as having one of the most fascinating bazaars in the country before hostilities broke out. The nature of the bazaar has changed, but Kunduz’s beautiful setting in the mountainous Badakhshan region is a permanent attraction. 1260 km north of Kabul.

MAZAR-I-SHARIF (Mazar-e Sharif)
Mazar-i-Sharif (pop. 123,000) is not that interesting in itself, but its airport is the closest to Balkh. Before the years of warfare, Mazar-i-Sharif was worth a stop to visit the Tomb of Ali (Blue Mosque) and to shop for carpets in the busy market. 300 km northwest of Kabul.

(end)
Khorsheed.com - Jan 2002